Along the coast, yet so unknown

A secret Adriatic pearl

Waves ever crashing

  Against ancient stone

  Against medieval walls 

  Against recent contention

Never marring the beauty within

  both old and new

Montenegro’s evolving still.

 

As I sit at my favorite “work spot” in Montenegro—on the beach right beside the medieval wall surrounding Old Budva—I feel a mixture of thankfulness for such an enjoyable visit to this area, sadness in having to leave, and excitement as we move into our 6th month of travel. 

 

Montenegro! What a find! Many people have never heard of it, maybe because it just recently became an independent country. Before that (from 1992-2006) it was united with Serbia, and before that, it was under communist rule as part of Yugoslavia. As with all the Balkan countries, it has a long history of being conquered and ruled by various regimes.

 

I actually saw Montenegro from a distance four years ago when I was just above its northwest border in Croatia. That’s the first time I recall hearing the name Montenegro, and I wondered why it had a Spanish-sounding name meaning Black Mountain. Through a little research, I discovered that it was named by the Venetians who settled there in the 1400s. When they arrived, the mountains, especially Mt. Lovćen, looked black with dense forests. So, they named the region “Black Mountain.” 

 

The forests are still dense, but what’s so striking to me are the crystal blue waters of the Adriatic and the majestic mountains throughout the country. It truly is a breathtaking country. Everywhere we went, it was simply beautiful. (Please visit my photo page in the link above.)

 

We stayed in the lovely town of Budva, which is one of the oldest settlements along the Adriatic coast. There are findings suggesting this town is 2500 years old. After the 1979 earthquake, which devasted Montenegro’s coastal towns, many artifacts like pottery, jewelry, tools, and games predating Jesus Christ, were discovered. (The little museum in Old Budva have these on display, and it’s totally worth a visit to see them.) 

 

An interesting fact about the earthquake is how the leaders (at the time part of Yugoslavia) responded. Instead of just leaving the towns in rubble or completely razing them, each citizen was required to give part of their salary for the rebuilding projects. They kept the integrity of the medieval history of Budva, Kotor, and surrounding cities. 

 

However, even with all its history and beauty, my most precious memories from this country will be the heart, kindness, compassion, and community-centeredness of its people. I loved walking through town and always seeing families playing at the parks, and friends sitting and chatting on benches along the beach, and parents pushing strollers on the coastal trails. It reminded me a bit of Scotland, with family and friends having passionate discussions about sports and politics and maybe even the weather. 

 

And they were so friendly. I tried to buy olives at a farmers market, but the seller gave them to me as a gift. A barista gave me a complimentary cookie with my latte order. A man paid the 20-cents change at the grocery store when I couldn’t find the correct coin.

 

But my most memorable takeaway occurred after a not-so-fun incident. At the beach café (where I’m sitting), I can see the place along the wall where I slipped on algae and smashed my knee. The pain of that moment and the cuts and bruises will eventually fade, but the compassion of the people will live on in my heart. From those who sat with me until Woody could get there, to the concerned boys who wanted to know they could do, to the shop keeper who brough me ice and wipes, to the precious young girl who gave me a seashell, I will remember each of them. (I was so moved by how God used these people in my life, I posted about it on Facebook as well. If you’d like to read the full story, visit my page: Pamela Glaze Johnson.) 

 

One last fact about this country: they love cats! There are cats everywhere…on the beaches, in the streets, outside the stores, on the chairs of the outdoor cafes. And though most are feral, they’re friendly cats. They just want to be petted and loved and fed. In Kotor, they have stores and a museum dedicated to cats. My guess is there is not a rodent problem in this country.

 

So, month five comes to a close. Next stop: España, to which I return after 44 years.

 

Thank you for following along on our journey.

 

Hasta luego.

Pam

 

“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey” ―Babs Hoffman

​

​

Moonrise over Old Budva