Entry 17 (Oct 1: Romania)

 

The forests may whisper

The mountains allure

Like a siren’s bewitchment

   Transylvania ensnares

   the heart, the mind, 

  the very soul of those who dare to enter.

 

Mountains, castles, forests, food, bears, hiking, churches, trains. So many words to describe our experience in Transylvania. What an intriguing, beautiful, and slightly unsettling place.

 

MOUNTAINS: We flew into Bucharest and, knowing we were only 1.5 hours or so from Predeal (a ski resort), we were surprised by how flat Bucharest is. On the train, we didn’t see the mountains off in the distance until about 45 minutes into the trip. But once we entered the gorgeous Carpathian Mountains, we were in them for our whole stay in Transylvania.

 

The train took us through the towns of Sinaia and Busteni. Both so very charming. Sinaia has a bit more to offer in the way of restaurants and shopping, but Busteni has the most stunning mountains surrounding it. Absolutely magnificent. It’s worth the trip to Transylvania to take the cable car into those mountains to feel like you’re on top of the world.

 

CASTLES: Transylvania and all of Romania is dotted with both active castles and ruins of castles. We visited several “active” castle sites, including Peles and Pelisor Castles in Sinaia, Bran Castle near Brasov, and we saw Cantacuzino Castle in Busteni from a distance.

 

The most famous of the castles is Bran Castle, also known as “Dracula’s Castle,” though Bram Stoker never visited the castle or Transylvania, and Dracula never dwelt there. There is a rumor, though, that Vlad the Impaler—Stoker’s inspiration for his infamous character—was imprisoned at Bran Castle for several days.

 

The most beautiful is Peles Castle—straight out of a fairy tale. (Fun fact: scenes from a friend’s movies, The Christmas Prince trilogy, was filmed at this castle.) The walk up the mountain from Sinaia’s train station took us by a 17th century monastery and through forest trails lined with street vendors selling everything from stuffed Pikachus to Romanian blouses to fur coats. Sinaia is a “must stop” if you’re in this area.

 

FORESTS, BEARS & HIKING: The Carpathian Mountains in Romania are home to 6,000 European Brown Bear, and we got up close and personal with some of them—fortunately, from the inside of our apartment. Several times a week, one would rummage through the garbage bin right outside our window, and then it and its friends would roam the streets of Predeal. We learned quickly to stay indoors after dark. 

 

Fortunately, we never encountered a bear (just their scat) while hiking through the dense forests. Predeal and the surrounding towns attract trekkers from around the world. Such a wonderland for the outdoor enthusiast. What a feeling to step from the heavy cover of evergreens to a panoramic view of 8,000 ft peaks. 

 

CHURCHES: One of the most spectacular Eastern Orthodox Churches is located in Predeal. It’s a modern church, built in the 1990s, and both the inside (totally covered with elaborate icons) and the outside (designed to look like mountain peaks) are worth a visit to this small town. 

 

Romania is one of the most religious countries in Europe, with Eastern Orthodox as the predominant religion.

 

TRAINS: Romania is a poor nation, so most of the trains and train stations are in need of updating, but their network system is very sound, and we had no trouble traveling across the country. The train between Bucharest, and Brasov also stopped in Sinaia, Busteni, and “our home” of Predeal.

 

We also used the bus services in Bucharest and Brasov. There are things you should know beforehand, so contact me if you plan to travel to this area.

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Romania was not on our original itinerary when we planned our year abroad. But we’re so glad we changed our plans and experienced such an fascinating country. The history, the myths, the bears, and the splendor made our stay there an unforgettable experience…even if we didn’t see a vampire.

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Fun fact: My workplace at home (Jonesborough Repertory Theatre) is currently rehearsing Young Frankenstein, which takes place in Transylvania!

 

Hasta Luego…in Montenegro.

 

Pam (A Mimi on the Move)

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“There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.” 
―Gandalf, The Hobbit