Entry 15 (Aug 1: Norway)

 

The big city life of Bergen was quite a contrast from the small village life of Muir of Ord in Scotland. And, like many countries around the world, we found Norway itself a land of contrasts.

 

Bergen is a colorful, vibrant, cosmopolitan city nestled between the Hardangerfjord and the Sognefjord. Quaint cobblestone streets lined with charming colorful row houses wind their way through bustling city streets and high-tech buildings. Glass front businesses stand side by side with centuries-old stone churches and wooden houses. The contrasts are striking…especially when a multi-storied cruise ship parks next to a 13th century fortress.

 

Besides the contrasts within the city, there is an obvious contrast between the city and the surrounding fjords, majestic mountains, and lush valleys. Only a step away from the busy city life is the wonder of God’s creation.

 

We traveled out of town (via train, boat, car, and bus) to experience the beauty of the country. We took a train from Bergen through the mountains down to the village of Flåm and then cruised through the stunning fjords to Gudvangen. This is a must trip for anyone visiting this area.

 

Other towns we visited were Øystese, on Hardangerfjord, and the inland town of Voss, where a friend from our Bergen church has an old farmhouse (that was occupied by Germans during WWII!). Voss is a picturesque city. You can stop by on your way to or from Flåm.

 

The notable site in Bergen is the Hanseatic wharf called Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage site. These colorful wood houses along the water were first built in the 1300s. Unfortunately, they have been the victims of numerous fires, but they keep being re-built. They now house shops, pubs, and restaurants. 

 

At the end of the wharf is the iconic Bergen Fish Market, established in the 1200s. Though not nearly as large as Pikes Place Market in Seattle, it’s a fun place to walk through and maybe grab a fresh fish sandwich. (If you’re a vegetarian like me, you can find a baked potato or fries. J)

 

Right behind Bryggen is St. Mary’s Church, the oldest building in Bergen, and where we attended the Bergen Anglican services. We discovered it when Woody researched “English-speaking churches” and found out its chaplain (Kirk) is from Greeneville, TN, about 23 miles from our Jonesborough home. Wow! Small world! 

 

Though we attended the church and made new friends (including Eirik and Ana, who have the farm in Voss), we didn’t get to meet Kirk since he and his family were gone the month of July (as many Norwegians and businesses are on holiday this month).

 

Unfortunately, for those who stayed in Bergen for this year’s vacation, they had a wet one. Not that that stopped anyone. Despite the rain, you get out and go. We racked up mile after rainy mile and met joggers, parents (actually, mostly fathers) pushing their babies in covered carriages, dog walkers, bikers, and people of all ages on their electric scooters. (These you must watch out for. Woody and I constantly kept a wary eye behind us.) One thing about living in one of the rainiest cities in Europe, they have very chic rain gear (matching pants and jackets) to protect against the blowing rain. Reminded me of the matching ski bibs/jackets I used to get in Alaska.

 

If you ever visit Bergen, it’s a good idea to get a Bergen card…especially if you’re there long enough for the 4-day card. You’ll save on transportation (the light-rail and bus), museums, the cable car, and even a discount at Starbucks. Also, a discount at the Opera Café, which we highly recommend. (That pear/goat cheese/walnut salad! WOW!) 

 

We did go to Starbucks. It’s the only coffee shop we found that serves decaf (which is what we typically drink). Even the stores didn’t have any. Just take note of that if you’re a decaf drinker.

 

Also, don’t expect to buy a bottle of wine at the grocery store. I heard that a number of years ago, in order to reduce alcohol consumption, they started only selling wine and liquor at government regulated stores. Again, just take note if you want a Pinot Noir to go with the salmon you buy at the market.

 

We loved our time in Bergen (and Norway). Here are a few words to sum it up….and, yes…seagulls again.

 

Call of the gulls, mountains, and sea

Trees clinging to cliffs, lush valleys below

Contrast the bustling city, 

Trams, bikes, and trains

Norway’s perfect harmony

Nature and high tech…coexisting.

 

Hasta Luego,

Pam

 

“The most beautiful thing in the world is, of course, the world itself” – Wallace Steven